by Linden Gross, One Stop Writing Shop
My three dining companions and I settled ourselves at our white linen-clothed table, commented on the pleasantly cozy restaurant that seats just 35, and immediately began to strategize. It didn’t take long to agree on the dishes we would share.
The lovely Ahi tuna tartar gave us our first hint of what was to come. Silky, small cubes of tuna were coated with sesame oil, topped with crispy potato ribbons, and served with mixed greens, pickled ginger and, surprise, a rich lemon butter sauce. Talk about an unexpected flavor contrast that works!
Braised short rib risotto was served with a balsamic reduction drizzled on the plate in the form of an abstract sunflower. The Arborio rice was creamy while retaining just enough firmness and the tender meat, mushrooms, goat cheese, parmesan and sweet balsamic reduction all harmonized perfectly.
Without a doubt, however, the hands down, forks up appetizer winner was the crispy, sautéed shrimp and scallop cakes served with a traditional French white wine lemon butter sauce. “This is a 10 out of 10,” exclaimed one of my friends. “It’s out of this world.” I was right there with her. A must have.
Our entrees were equally, if not more, impressive. The sautéed Dungeness crab cakes, also served with a white wine lemon butter sauce, and the grilled wild steelhead ringed with a leek and basil cream sauce were just about as good as they get. Melt-in-your-mouth, pan-seared sea scallops were complemented by a pancetta and spinach cream sauce that, despite being just a tad salty, was as pleasing to the eye as it was to the palate.
As much as we enjoyed all the above dishes, we found nirvana with the luscious pan-roasted duck breast. “I’ve never had duck this tender,” said one of my dining companions. “I could come back and do this duck all day long.” The accompanying, not-too-sweet, port wine lingonberry sauce, made with a veal reduction, highlighted rather than upstaged the star of the show—the duck itself. Chef Lars Johnson’s signature dish was rendered even more unforgettable by a decadent risotto made of tiny, soft squares of sweet potato instead of rice.
My friends and I could have stopped there. We should have stopped there. Instead we ended up with a split verdict on the divine desserts made in house by Jaymie Johnson, who owns the restaurant with her chef husband Lars. So I’ll just say that if you get a chance to try the warm, flaky-crusted Macadamia Coconut Tart that takes the idea of pecan pie to a whole new level or the lush Chocolate Crème Brulée that tastes like a cross between baked custard and chocolate mousse, just say yes.
As we wrapped up what can only be described as one of the better dining experiences I’ve had in Oregon, I reflected on the meal. The constant with each dish seemed to be Chef Lars’ knack for blending flavors into a delectable creation while still retaining the essence of each individual ingredient. That’s the kind of creative finesse that comes with study in a respected culinary school (Chicago’s Kendall College Culinary Arts Program, located on the campus of Northwestern University) and under chefs from San Francisco to Nashville.
The result of such experience blended with innate culinary talent? A locals’ favorite with downright delicious food that’s friendly and casually elegant. And now that it’s finally summer, don’t forget about the restaurant’s vast deck ringed with towering pines. “The deck can seat more than our made-to-order menu/kitchen can support – please be patient and we will make any wait worth it,” reads the website. I’m convinced of that and happily anticipate making up for lost time with a number of long, leisurely dinners under a setting sun.
South Bend Bistro
57080 West Mall Drive, Sunriver
541-593-3881
www.southbendbistro.com
Hours: Wednesday – Sunday
5pm – close
(Reservations recommended)
Owners: Lars and Jaymie Johnson