(Left, hamachi crudo, right, snap pea gimlet. Photos courtesy of Linden Gross.) 
Tetherow’s new restaurant, Coorie, is named after a Scottish word meaning to nestle in for shelter and comfort. In my world, the notion of comfort has always included food — but perhaps not food quite as memorable as what classically French-trained executive chef Tanner Hansen is creating.
Before we get to the dishes my friend and I were treated to, I would be remiss not to mention the hand-crafted cocktails, which focus on the same seasonal ingredients and local purveyors as the cuisine, while offering the same kind of delightfully creative twist. Take, for example, the snap pea gimlet. What?! Yes, you read that right. House-made snap pea syrup and sesame turn a basic gimlet into a quaffable walk through a garden. Ditto for the refreshingly tart marionberry spritz with marionberry-rosemary cordial (also house-made), vodka, Lillet Blanc and lemon.
The drinks should have been my clue that dinner would be something special, but I had no idea what we were in store for.
It all started with the Hamachi (yellowtail) crudo, served with what tasted like a bouquet of red radish, jalapeño, orange supremes, tamari mignonette, fresh-picked dill, micro cilantro and lime zest. It all served to highlight the buttery, raw fish. “One of the top five Hamachis I’ve ever had,” announced my friend.
Next came the grilled cauliflower elote, which we had to order based on the concept alone. Spicy, citrusy, salty and vibrant, with corn succotash, pickled red onion, chimichurri and Tajin, it was divine — a true wow —
and not like any cauliflower I’ve
ever tasted.
Chef Tanner surprised us with a beef tartare made with wagyu tenderloin, black truffle and molasses, topped with two slices of jalapeño tempura, and dusted with coffee-salt sprinkles. Did I mention the dollops of stone-fruit gel on the side? You owe it to yourself to order this tartare if the chef rolls it out this fall.
We followed that with fall-apart tender Cedar River Farms short ribs served with locally foraged mushrooms and a Yukon Gold potato pavé (thinly sliced, layered potatoes). We also opted for the puff 
pastry, which, in addition to local mushrooms that tasted as if they had just come out of the ground, featured English pea mascarpone mousse and crispy leeks. Comfort food at its finest on both fronts.
The highlight of our beef extravaganza, however, had to be the Japanese Wagyu A5 New York Strip, served with shishito peppers and a frisee salad with apple and pomegranate in a lemon vinaigrette that cut through the fat perfectly.
We opted to share a dessert and vowed we wouldn’t eat more than a bite each of the salt-crystal-topped entremet dessert, with layers of espresso custard, chocolate cake and dark chocolate ganache in 
white chocolate mousse with a caramel sauce and almond brittle. We ate the whole thing. You just can’t say no to something that ridiculously delicious.
“I still got tread on my tires,” said Chef Tanner, a 17-year kitchen veteran who previously worked at Juniper Preserve and Bos Taurus, but still looks like he’s just getting started.
I can’t wait to see where those tires take us.