((L-R) Sweet Potatoes, Meat Board)
Did Bend really need another high-end steakhouse? I have to admit that when Hawkeye & Huckleberry Lounge opened last June, I didn’t think so. Of course, the ginormous space — with its dark walls, dramatic pendant lighting, and a twinkle-star ceiling — is beautiful, and the slightly rowdy cowboy atmosphere is downright fun. Then there’s the fact that the restaurant boasts not just one celebrity chef — co-owner Brian Malarkey — but two since executive chef Carlos Anthony is now manning the helm.
Okay. My doubts were beginning to subside. Then I had dinner there.
I slid into the couch banquette, looked at the drink menu, and instantly wanted the three bourbon cocktails. Thanks to my friends, I got to taste them all, as well as one made with mezcal. In an era of bartenders often trying too hard, these were memorable. That would prove to be the evening’s theme.
Carlos promptly announced he was taking over when it came to ordering, so we got to try a ridiculous number of dishes. Bright supremed orange segments, hemp seed, burnt honey, and crispy shallots highlighted firm and creamy burrata flanked by red and golden beets. Slightly sweet campfire cornbread baked with creamed corn and sour cream was served with local honey and rosemary-sea-salt butter. The shining star of this first round, however, was the marrow aioli beef tartare studded with capers, shallots, and mustard seed, and accompanied by pink peppercorn-dusted, hand-cut potato chips. If I could only eat one thing for the rest of my life, this dish would be it.
On the hot appetizer front, we enjoyed light, spicy amatriciana pork and beef meatballs (somebody turned up the temperature on that) atop a bed of ricotta and crispy herbs, as well as succulent shrimp and polenta with white cheddar and basil (we all wanted to lick the plate), both a reflection of Carlos’s influence. “Any time you see spice and flavor, that’s me,” he announced.
Yes, we were being spoiled. And it didn’t stop there. The mother of all meat boards hit next, featuring a beef trifecta — New York, ribeye, and filet — all from the Malarkey ranch in Tumalo, and all divine. Talk about a game changer! The accompanying six sauces, including toasted bearnaise and chili butter, were stupidly good. So were the sides, which included sweet potatoes in salsa matcha (Mexican chile oil made with fried dried chiles, garlic, nuts, and sesame seeds) along with a fresh green version with jalapeños, cilantro, and pepitas; peppery green beans with chili crack and creamy garlic yogurt; and al dente roasted harissa carrots with feta and pistachios. Yum, yum, yum!
At the end of the feast, Carlos took pity on us and brought out a single dessert — a molten chocolate lava cake I still can’t believe was gluten-free, that came with pitchers of chocolate ganache and crème anglaise.
In short, the meal was an absolute treat from beginning to end, and the service was just as outstanding as the food. I’ll be back!