(Photos by Linden Gross)
I don’t get surprised that often when I go out to eat. Pleased? Yes. Excited? Yes. Disappointed? Sure. But surprised? In a good way? That just doesn’t happen all that often. Then, I dined at Amaterra Kitchen + Social Club, where surprise seems to be their word of choice.
I had looked at their menu several times before going. To be honest, it just seemed like a lot of the ingredients listed on the dishes didn’t really go together. Guess what? They do, in a big way.
My friend and I started with a couple of chilled oysters on the half shell. Instead of the traditional mignonette, Executive Chef Jeff Kelly served a slow-burn hot sauce that I hope he’ll bottle, and a lime and fish sauce Nuoc Cham sauce that set off the briny oysters. The sauces, it turns out, change based on the type of oysters being served.
We were off and running.
The grilled lemon shrimp with roasted garlic aioli and harissa served over polenta could have been the ultimate winter dish. Instead, it sprang into summer thanks to the freshness of the smoky tomato coulis.
My friend really wanted to try the Wagyu carpaccio. I was not convinced. “Really? But it’s served with barbecue sauce.”
When our server, formerly from 900 Wall and a total pro, assured us that the South Carolina BBQ sauce was heavy on the mustard and vinegar as opposed to the sweet, ketchup variety I was envisioning, I agreed to try. The appetizer turned out to be a creative, fun play on the tender, thinly sliced raw beef classic, especially with dueling textures provided by crispy julienned snow peas and diced cucumber.
Clearly, Chef Kelly, who hails from Virginia and recently headed up Stella’s Southern Brasserie in South Carolina, likes to play with his food—a fun attitude that’s reflected in the restaurant’s lightened-up décor and casually upscale, friendly vibe.
Bouncing between surf and turf led my friend and me to the scallops served with pork belly that tasted like bacon on steroids, charred leeks, pickled shimeji mushroom, garlic chips, crema, and black garlic rice that’s coated in tapioca, flash-fried, then sauteed in squid ink. Yes, yes, yes!
We were also over the moon for the perfectly al dente, charred grilled carrots with harissa, mint, walnuts, lemon, crème fraiche, and tahini-lime vinaigrette.
Definitely a meal of unexpected tastes and parings.
Speaking of pairings, the wine offerings were just as spectacular as the food. Not being a Pinot Noir fan, which Amaterra Winery specializes in, I was a bit worried. My Walla Walla duo flight—a rich Syrah and even richer Cabernet—proved to be among the best glasses of wine I’ve enjoyed lately.
When it was time for dessert, neither my friend nor I had room to spare, so we agreed to a to-go piece of the strawberry mille-feuille (a classic French pastry, literally meaning “thousand leaves”) layered with whipped chocolate chiffon. Of course, once it hit the table, we had to try a bite. And then another. It’s a miracle that any of that dessert made it home at all.
Amaterra
909 NW Bond Street, Bend
541-246-3266
Wednesday-Sunday: 12-4pm (wine tasting & snack menu)
Wednesday, Thursday & Sunday: 4-9pm
Friday-Saturday: 4-10pm